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Once again Rhythm in Shoes traverses the country and I seek out the best eateries of each region. Here are some of my favorites:
Missoula, MT was a refreshing blast of progressive culture as we moved West across the plains states. Red Pies Over Montana is a New York-style Italian restaurant. The place smelled great when we walked in and it was packed on a Tuesday night, which I took as a good sign. Then, I found a rarity on the menu: humanely-raised veal.
I haven’t ordered veal for twenty years, since I learned that in order to produce whiter and more tender meat, the young animals are kept in such tight quarters that they literally can’t move, and in some cases are kept in ill health and anemic. I’d heard that there were producers who didn’t use these methods, but I’d never actually seen it on a menu before. So I ordered Veal Pizziola: veal cutlets in marinara sauce with long strips of peppers and onions, on spaghetti. It was tender and delicious, and the Caesar Salad that preceded it was fresh and tasty. Our waitress was wonderfully attentive and prompt, especially considering how busy they were. Rating: 3 SHOES
As we crossed Eastern Washington I was surprised by the number of Mexican restaurants we were seeing, until I realized we were in a major agricultural valley. After sound check in Kinniwick, WA we all went to a place the tech crew had found the previous evening, Cinco de Mayo, on Clearwater.
On entering we encountered several walls covered in snapshots of patrons wearing the Birthday Sombrero. The menu was nicely designed and displayed as impressive range of Mexican dishes, far beyond the familiar Tex-Mex standards.
To start, we were brought endless baskets of homemade tortilla chips, light and not at all greasy, and two salsas. They were both excellent but I preferred the chunkier hot salsa.
At my table, Sharon ordered the Pollo Poblano, a charbroiled breast in a sauce of poblano chilies, chocolate, spices, and apple. The flavor was intriguing, fruity but not cloying. Rick had the Chicken Mole Verde, with a sauce that included pumpkin seeds and “milk spices.” It, too, had a sweetness to it, and was entirely different from Sharon’s.
I had Camarones Cuautitlan, a dish from Jalisco. Shrimp were sauteed with butter, broccoli, spinach, green peppers, and onions, then cooked in a spicy red sauce. It was exquisite, with complex flavors, and my favorite of the three. All were served with some of the most flavorful rice and refried beans I’ve tasted. The homemade corn tortillas were also exceptionally light, tender, and tasty. Everything I tried was out-of-the-ordinary. And the service was excellent: fast, friendly, and thorough. Rating: A strong 5 SHOES.
Honorable Mention and a really big Shoe goes to Jack’s in Dickinson, ND, for their delicious borscht. In addition to beets it contained cabbage and other vegetables as well as cream. Jack’s is a small-town luncheonette and the rest of the menu was fairly plain middle-American fare, but the borscht was our one taste of Dickenson- Ukrainian heritage.
In Portland, OR, several of us had lunch at Jake’s Famous Crawfish Restaurant on SW 12th Ave. before our show at “the Schnitz.” It was a real treat. Both the lunch and dinner menus are printed daily, and the variety of regional seafood that was offered was mind-boggling. I was especially struck by the list of items that were available that day: 5 kinds of oysters, 15 kinds of fish, plus clams, crawfish, crabs, lobster, abalone, mussels, and scallops, all listed by place of origin.
I had an appetizer of pan-fried Goosepoint oysters, which were light and crisp and exceptionally sweet and tender. My entree was Grilled Ahi Tuna (from Hawaii),Yucatan Style. The fish was served sitting on a bed of spicy peppers, tomatoes, and onions. On one side, there was a mound of rice and on the other a stack of bright whole green beans with a strip of pimento across it. The fish was extremely tender and flavorful, the beans crisp and sweet. When I requested red-skin potatoes in place of rice, they were brought graciously.
My companions ordered the Northwest Salmon Saute, with mushrooms, hazelnuts, and berries, and the Grilled Washington Salmon with Herb Buerre Blanc. Everything was exceptional. Rating: An unconditional 5 SHOES.
The very longest one-day drive of the tour was from The Dales, OR, (East of Portland near the Columbia Gorge) to Ukiah, CA, a bit North of San Francisco. It was a good 14 plus hours, and our one planned stop was the Olive Pit in Corning, CA, the “Olive Capital of the World,” This is a wonderful store not just for the diversity of olives and other specialty foods, but because there are many jars open and available for tasting. These include a large selection of olive oils, vinegars, jams, sauces, pickled garlic, nuts of every type and flavor, dried fruit, as well as some cookware, olive oil soap, etc. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
After a visit to the 1200 year-old California redwood trees in Montgomery Woods, followed by a romp on the beach near the Mendocino Headlands, Evie and I had dinner at the Mendocino Cafe, on Meredith St. It is a small, tastefully artsy dining room with a highly decorated bathroom—stenciled flowers, trompe l’oeil windows with views of the local hills, and a door painted to look like a redwood trunk.
Even their business card is a multi-color work of art. The menu presented such an enticing array of dishes that choosing was difficult, but we decided to start off with clams and mussels steamed with wine. They were served drained, with a cup of broth and melted butter for dipping. The clams were sweet and succulent, the mussels slightly less so, but very fresh tasting. They were very garlicky, but not overwhelmingly so, which was fine with us, and the broth was so flavorful that I went through a second basket of bread using the broth as a dip.
For my entree, I ordered one of the specials: wild local salmon sauteed with mushrooms, ginger, and garlic in a soy oyster sauce, served with garlic mashed potatoes and sliced zucchini and onions sauteed in garlic. It was a garlic lover’s heaven. The salmon was pleasantly crunchy around the edges and slightly glazed with the sauce, while being so delicate in the center it melted in my mouth. It was smothered with a variety of sliced mushrooms. The flavor again was incredibly fresh and woodsy with an Asian touch.
Evie had the Delhi curry bowl with tofu, which she said was excellent, but as soon as our food came, she wished she had my salmon. I didn’t try anything from their wine list, as I needed to drive us back through the windy high country roads to Ukiah, but they looked local and very interesting. As did the list of in-house desserts, which were strong on multi-fruit pastries. This was a most enjoyable culmination to a wondrous day-trip. Rating: 4 ½ SHOES
On our drive from Ukiah to San Luis Obispo, we stopped for a meal in Gilroy, CA, “Garlic Capital of the World,” and stumbled upon Giannecchini’s because the sidewalk in front of it smelled so good.
This is a one-man show, and I assume the man was G. himself. The room was a former old-time pharmacy. Now the ceiling was painted sky-blue with clouds, and the shelves along both walls were displaying jars of Garlic Festival pickled garlic, garlic powders and rubs, etc.
G. was a wonderful host: taking our order at the counter, going back into the kitchen to cook our meals on a 2-burner Coleman stove, serving us, and sitting at the next table to visit with his friends who were in for a drink.
I had Pasta Calabrese: fresh tomatoes, broccoli, onion, spicy red peppers, and zucchini, sauteed with white wine and olive oil and served over mostaccioli. Oh, and of course, garlic. The pasta could have been more al dente, but the sauce was zesty, homey, and absolutely delicious without being the least bit pretentious. Rating: 3 SHOES
On my first evening in San Luis Obispo I walked throughout the lively downtown area and two restaurants caught my eye. I eventually had opportunities to try both and was not disappointed.
The Big Sky Cafe, on Broad St. describes its fare as “modern food.” Its dining room has an airy,open feeling, and there was music by Dr. John and Billie Holiday playing to compliment the atmosphere. The menu was full of creative, fresh salads, soups, seafoods, and sandwiches. I finally chose the Salad Nicoise.
Theirs is not the familiar tuna and hard-boiled egg version. This was a piece of freshly grilled sea bass on a bed of greens with roasted red-skinned potatoes and marinated green beans and sweet red pepper strips on the side. The fish was cooked to perfection, very tender and mild-flavored, with the excellent vinaigrette as an embellishment.
The marinated vegetables were crunchy and sweet and just slightly, pleasantly tart. The salad was accompanied by a couple of small breads, one a corn muffin that was a bit too sweet and oily for my taste, and a very nice crusty dinner roll. A very satisfying lunch. Rating: 4 1/2 SHOES
Buona Tavola, on Monterey St., is a small, elegant Italian place. One can sit on the outdoor patio or in the cozy dining room, with impressionist paintings on the wall and bottles of wine displayed on the back counter. We started out with a bottle of one of those wines: 1996 Merlot from Wild Horse, a local winery.
My salad of mixed baby greens with vinaigrette was topped with curlicues of shaved fennel stalks, a novel and tasty garnish. The Caesar was topped with large shavings of exceptional Parmesan cheese, which I got to eat because one of my companions didn’t want cheese. My entree was house-made Piemontese ravioli stuffed with scampi in a lightly spicy tomato sauce. This may well be the best pasta I have ever eaten. The ravioli wrappers were thin and tender, with a delicious shrimp filling and alight sauce with just a little bite to it. I wanted it to last forever. One of my best meals ever. Rating: 5 SHOES PLUS
As we waited for our table in Azuma, on Figueroa St. in Santa Barbara, we were impressed by the array of framed awards this unpretentious Sushi restaurant has won over the years. We soon saw why.
Most of us, myself included, ordered the sushi special. It started with a bowl of very tasty miso soup, which contained some wonderful very dark greens. Next, we each had a large basket of tempura and a bowl of dipping sauce. There were two jumbo shrimp, broccoli, winter squash, two asparagus spears, and a slice of some unidentified round, white, sweet, starchy vegetable. They were all delicious, although the crust was a little more oily than I care for.
Then came the sushi platter: 6 slices of California roll, filled with real crab meat salad and topped with bright orange roe, and 6 slices of Spiced Tuna Roll. This was very fine sushi and excellent service. Plus there was a bonus: when the cashier learned that we were all the way from Ohio (and that we knew it meant “good morning” in Japanese) she gave us a tin of local butter crunch candy as a gift. Dessert! Rating: 4 SHOES
There are a lot of places in Santa Barbara to buy coffee and pastry, but I lucked onto Napoleon on State St. Their cases were full of trays of absolutely gorgeous French pastries, morning pastries, breads and salads.
It was hard to narrow my choices down to four pastries and a croissant, and even then I felt a bit silly with my box of bakery goods in the van the next morning. I ate the almond croissant for breakfast the next day, and while it was deliciously buttery and flaky, the almond paste filling was mysteriously absent. A bit disappointing.
The Chocolate Bell is a mound of chocolate mousse on a disk of shortbread, glazed with chocolate ganache and decorated with a pinch of gold leaf and 2 fans of chocolate speckled with gold. I gave it to Malkum on his birthday, and the word is that it was wonderful.
The Tiramisu tasted similar to others I’ve had, but it was definitely the most beautiful: a long rectangular slice, the cream topping combed in a ½ inch scallop, dusted with cocoa, labeled with as oval plaque of white chocolate with the word “tiramisu” stamped in ornate brown letters.
The two other pastries are equally beautiful and delicious, one of chocolate mousse flavored with orange, the other mocha mousse. If I lived in Santa Barbara I’d gain fifty pounds trying everything they make at Napoleon. I guess it’s better I don’t. Rating: 5 SHOES

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